London's Jermyn Street, in its proximity to the Court of St. James, has been home to two prime ministers (William Gladstone and William Pitt), the Duke of Marlborough, the poet John Gray and Sir Isaac Newton. Most visitors, however, are aware of none of that. What they do know about Jermyn Street is its reputation for handmade shirts. That's because this charming little lane of first-rate shops has concentrated more of the world's shirtmakers in a few blocks than one might have thought existed in the world. So well known is the area that the distinctive collar style used in many shops is simply called the Jermyn Street spread.
Jermyn Street's tradition for bespoke garments is the big draw, but on close inspection shoppers find a mind-boggling array of off-the-peg shirts that offers almost as much choice as the custom models -- and at much more approachable prices. The British sense of color,
pattern and whimsy when it comes to shirts and ties is quite
arresting to the American sensibility, accustomed as it is to
patternless shirts in a palette that includes little else but white and blue. But as freeing as the Brits are in those matters, some shops deal in a limited array of sizes, believing, for example, that size-16 necks go with 35-inch sleeves and only 35-inch sleeves. Small matter, though -- there are a dozen or so shirt merchants from which to choose. These are the best.
Turnbull & Asser sports the best reputation. It has been
shirtmaker to princes, prime ministers, Gatsby and every James Bond from Sean Connery to Pierce Brosnan. Wood-paneled elegance oozes the tradition of a store that opened on Jermyn Street in 1885 as a glover and hosier. The sea-island cotton shirt with the distinctive three-button cuff may now be the star of the shop's retinue, but gloves, cashmere socks, even pajamas, robes, braces, cuff links, hankies and, of course, ties are all still available. Any stuffiness of atmosphere is belied by sprightly colors and patterns, a nod to the mod '60s when Turnbull & Asser was actually a London fashion leader. Ready-to-wear shirts are about $75 to $250, bespoke about $175 to $275.
Harvie & Hudson, opened in 1949, is the relative newcomer in this cloistered shirt world. As such, it's not too surprising that the shop is renowned for some of the street's most daring stripes, cheekiest suspenders and boldest robes. Certain conveniences also come with shopping at Harvie & Hudson. For the hard to fit, it offers suits as separates (jackets, about $350, trousers, about $200), and the minimum order for bespoke shirts is four, compared with the standard of six at other shops on the street. Ready-to-wear shirts are about $100, bespoke $200.
Hilditch & Key, founded in 1899, prides itself on a devotion to quality detail work that shows itself in the look and level of comfort of its shirts. When prompted, a clerk tears open a packaged garment to point out extra pleats, gussets and generous fabric at the cuffs and sleeve gauntlets. He points with pride to the always matching stripes from collar point to collar point. The distinction causes wasted material and at least an extra 30 minutes of labor a shirt, but that's what you pay for. Special collars are also available, such as a cutaway collar that accentuates the Jermyn Street spread and a hidden-button button-down collar. The shop also carries ties, socks and sleepwear. Ready-to-wear shirts are about $100, bespoke $200.
Thomas Pink traces its heritage to an eighteenth-century tailor whose prized hunting clothes may have been responsible for the expression "in the pink." The palette moves beyond blush red but can still be defined by a number of eye-grabbing pastels (as well as staid whites and blues). The neckwear is equally as brilliant and includes a wide selection of woven ties. Cuff links lean heavily to the store's signature pink. The whimsy continues into a selection of polos, casual shirts, socks and boxer shorts. There is also a Pink Woman section. Prices here are a break from the other shops (off-the-peg only about $70 to $80) with the exception of the superfine two-fold 170 cloth shirt (about $130).
New & Lingwood, while a relative newcomer on Jermyn Street (1922), was probably already well-known to many of its customers as an outfitter for Eton College since 1886. The shop distinguishes itself from its neighbors by the wider spectrum of goods offered -- shoes (see "Fancy Footwork"), sweaters, robes and blazers, as well as shirts, cuff links and ties. Since 1972, New & Longwood has used the respected Bowring Arundel to make shirts both bespoke and ready-made. Aside from their less flashy patterns, these shirts offer a scaled-down version of the Jermyn Street spread. (Ready-made about
$80 to $110, bespoke about $195.) Chairman Anthony Spitz considers the shop an arbiter of good taste that doesn't fluctuate: "What are we going to do about dress-down day? Well, nothing."
97 Jermyn Street, St. James's, SW1Y 6JE. Tel.: 44/207-839-3578
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